Not stoked

I should be amped now that the autumn swells have been coming pretty frequently round our way, unfortunately I’m suffering a bit of a slump with three or four really poor sessions in a row. A combination of overcrowding, inaccurate forecasting and rusty/poor technique have left me feeling far from satisfied. I’ve even found myself walking back to the car apologising to my new board for being born into this dysfunctional family, rather than being owned by someone with better waves and skills. I’ve been here before and always come out the other side stoked but at the moment driving away from Carrots car park with a fixed smile on my boat race seems like a distant memory. A guy I was chatting to the other day summed it up pretty well when he said ‘I’m not sure whether I even still like surfing, I just keep coming here without thinking’. Pic borrowed from Sharkbait

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2 comments
  1. wheelsontoast said:

    Ha I know that clip well, ‘dude try these nachos’ is regularly said. Glad to see you’re still reading WOT, I saw Gotts the other day and he mentioned catching up sometime.

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